Eurodam entered the Songefjord around 5.30am and, while we were encouraged to be up to observe its narrow entrance, we failed. But we did observe the last half hour as we cruised to the pier in Flam. (Some historical data about Flam is to be found in the left sidebar.)
The little village of Flam has a permanent population of less than 500 but its economy is well supported by the hundreds of ships bringing tourists from around the world to ride the historic Flam railway. Before our departure on the 11.05 from Flam to Myrdale, M checked out the very expensive tourist shop and I settled into a corner where there was a reasonable Internet (free) signal. We had time too to visit a small museum detailing the history of the building of the Flam Railway. Before the availability of modern equipment tunnels were cut through the rock by hand often taking a month to complete a metre of tunnelling. They were tough, strong men,
The journey is an hour each way and the views were spectacular given that the cloudy, somewhat bleak day of yesterday, was transformed to clear blue skies and no wind. It really was a perfect day for admiring the mountainous terrain around Flam where long ribbons of water plummet hundreds of metres to boiling creeks and pristine lakes. The majority of cruise passengers who booked the ship's tour are herded into a number of carriages at the front of the train. We pre-purchased our tickets on line and rode in the last carriage with other day-trippers, fit young back-packers who might hike and camp in this stunning wilderness, and others with bikes in the baggage car who would ride back down the winding road adjacent to the tracks.
The train makes one stop at one of the falls to a platform drenched with the spray of this thunderous torrent. Everyone is excited as they try to evade the mist and to capture the moment. Eerie, whimsical music can suddenly be heard above the rushing water. And there she is high on the hill towards the top of the waterfall near some ruins. It is the mythical Norwegian Siren, dressed in a red cloak, waving her arms, and enticing those who dare to join her in the forest never to be seen again. Then she is gone only to emerge again as if by magic some many metres away. We feel the pull of her mystical powers and escape quickly to our carriage closing the door tightly behind and our train scurries on to its final destination, Myrdale, where it will soon begin its descent back to Flam. At Myrdale, this little train links up with other trains that journey on through tunnels cut through the mountains to places like Bergen and Oslo.
We strike up a conversation with a woman from Finland. Her son is about to to undertake university studies in International Business at the University of Helsinki and she is having one last journey/holiday with him before she lets him go. Her husband is with the Embassy in China and this young man has grown up in China with the family. Now she must say farewell and her eyes mist over as she explains that moment many of us can relate to. As a parent you have nurtured and protected a young life into emerging adulthood and now it is time to cut the strings that bind. We certainly recall that moment when we drove out of Townsville back to Bribane with tears streaming as we left Natalie for her first teacher posting. And so they will spend some last mother/son experiences riding the train of life together, exploring the fjords of Norway, and returning to old haunts of a previous life in Finand. Travel to distant lands reminds you that we are all the same you know, building lives, growing families, working hard to give your children the best opportunities for the short period you have them. Tall and gangly, with an indecent crop of hair that rails against being kept in place, somehow I know this young man is headed for success. Like most Europeans he speaks fluent English as well as his native Finnish and of course related languages in Norwegian and Swedish and even German are easily awoken. And he is reasonably fluent in Chinese. A successful career in international business seems inevitable.
Back onboard the Eurodam we head out of our minor fjord into the very impressive Songefjord. We sit on our balcony while the Captain and one of his officers provide us with a very interesting account of this unique area of the world. Among the many interesting facts he tells us that Norway is 98 percent proficient on hydro for all their electricity needs. The most significant power plants are buried deep within these mountains through which the many waterfalls are diverted. This is an added security strategy in the event of war. And so ends our visit to Flam and one f the largest ice free fjords in the world.
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